This whole setup came out of the backing so I’d like to replace the whole thing but I don’t have pipes, the supply line is hoses so I’m not sure what kind of valve I need to look at.
Your main shut off. That’s the first valve you have to find. Once you confirm that you have control over your water for the whole house ( or in this case a pex mana block may be present, kinda like a circuit breaker board for water control to each fixture). Once you have located and tested your main shut off you can begin your plumbing adventures.
Regarding the valve you are looking at. That is a unserviceable builders grade push on piece of shit. Your most straight toward fix is to locate a 1/2" pex possible 3/8" pex ANGLE shut off. You may want to stick with a push style shark byte installation if you don’t have to tools to crimp a standard pex valve on. You will not find a push on valve for a 3/8" pex line which make me believe that should be a 1/2"
Once you find that watch some videos on how to remove and set a new push fitting. And then get a supply tube to match your current fixture to the stop
E: that is a faucet fixture so you will need a 3/8 compression by 1/2" FIP supply connector. And most angle stops will be 3/8th compression on the service side towards the faucet. So just confirm that as it is the standard but they do make different stuff.
E. I am using stop and valve here interchangeably.
If it’s not broken, don’t fix it.
Get two self threading wood screws of the EXACT length you need to go through the escutcheon (flange) and into the wood without going through the wood and accidentally hitting the PEX.
Screw them in and call it done.
I’ve read enough about PEX and the thousand dollar crimpers to know it’s not worth messing with when it’s not leaking.
At some point you are going to do a real renovation or fix a problem and you’ll need to cut that PEX to change the cabinet or something. There might not be enough slack to do a second repair if you cut it for a new valve this time.
Didn’t even consider future repairs. That’s a good point. I’ll definitely look at just screwing it back down.
Given it looks like wood paneling, if you can sneak some wood in there to screw the fitting in to, you will have a better outcome. This may not be easy, or even possible.
I have a ton of scrap wood that will fit perfectly. Just need to grab some screws. Thanks for the tip!
Some construction adhesive to hold a new piece of wood to the panelling would work. From there, there would be enough meat for screws to hold to.
Yeah, I should have qualified “…without making a bigger hole.”
I’m no expert but that would be my recommendation. I don’t know what’s out of frame but if it’s not leaking, then don’t touch it.
There’s a lot to switching out that valve that could create a whole world of pain for you if you either miss the step or perform it incorrectly.
First, you need to find your main shutoff or the second you try to remove that valve, you will begin filling your domicile with water at a vigorous rate and you won’t be able to stop it until you’ve found and shut off the main.
Second, that’s a PEX line poking out from the wall and it was run like a typical builder-grade no-shits-given without an elbow or transition fitting so any valve you replace that one with will hang the same unless you have the PEX-specific tools necessary to work on PEX line.
I would very strongly suggest that you don’t attempt to tackle this on your own and at the very least consult a plumber or handyperson to give you the specifics for your particular need.
I’m going to follow the advice of someone else and just screw it back but you bring up another issue that I would like to tackle. For clarity my issue was never the valve but the hoses poking out and I figured if I have to remove the valve to address the hoses I might as well get a valve that functions better. You are correct that it is some builder nonsense.
What should I be telling a plumber to do to fix the transition so it’s not pushing out? I want to have an idea what I’m asking for so I don’t get taken advantage of and over charged.
The fix should be a fast one. Basically, they’ll likely just shorten the current line, add an elbow and stub it out of the wall at the 90 degrees it should have been from the beginning. They wouldn’t reuse the valve so you’d get a new one in the process.
A proper install would have mounted the elbow to a backing plate in the wall cavity so that the valve can’t move around but at this point!, that would require removing some drywall so a plumber might not do that. Its not something that has to be done but just hold the valve body to support it with one hand as you turn it on or off with the other.
There are already good answers to your stated question. Have you thought of just reattaching it to the wall? I don’t imagine that is a valve you manipulate often. You could just glue it back on there or screw it in and caulk it. Changing it won’t be bad though if you either have a Plex cutter and crimper or use shark bite fittings. No matter how fast you think you’ll be, it is still a good idea to shut off the water before changing the valve.
Liquid Nails is a beast for applications like this.
Shut the water off first and open a faucet to drain the line. Then take the old valve and hose to the hardware store with you, since matching the thread size and fittings is the hard part.
So I’m a paranoid person, if they don’t already have the parts for the replacement I would question how long they would take to acquire after turning the water off… Because while the hot water tank in theory shouldn’t drain anything, if others start trying to wash hands, clean dishes or take a shower the water from the tank would still come out and then you are heating lower amounts of water and air in the tank.
So the what could go wrong always has me cut the breaker to the hot water heater before I shut off the water main.
So I’m a paranoid person, if they don’t already have the parts for the replacement I would question how long they would take to acquire after turning the water off…
I would worry about this too. That’s why, even though I would also be too paranoid to use sharkbite fittings long-term, I would suggest having a few sharkbite end caps on hand for each size of pipe you have. That way, you can temporarily cap it off and turn the water back on if necessary.
Sorry, those questions suggest that you definitely shouldn’t do it
Fuck off with that gatekeeping bullshit.
I’m no plumber but even I recognized thats Pex, not a “hose” and have read enough out of curiosity to know I wouldn’t mess with it.
There are subtle variants in Pex and the Crimp tools are crazy expensive.
There are subtle variants in Pex and the Crimp tools are crazy expensive.
It annoys me that there isn’t one standard way of doing PEX.
Go for it you moron
